Valladolid, located inland between the tourist spots of Cancun and Tulum, used as a city to travel through on your way to any cost or as starting point for visiting Chichén-Itzá, is a lovely, calm city offering basically only one main street passing the central church and the main park. The city itself has no great architecture or history to talk about, but most visitors tend to visit one of the many Cenotes around. Some are close to the city, some further away, a couple totally covered with stone, hidden in a cave, while others offer huge holes where sunrays are spiking in and you may be able to jump in through.
The first evening we just spend eating in a recommendation of our hostel called Sabrositacos. The place offers a variety of local dishes interesting to try to, even though I would not recommend the spring onion starter, since these are just a looot of spring onions without anything. Still, it is quite local, gives you the chance to try different things and we also got love music of a local guitar player.
After arriving from Cozumel by ferry and bus the day before, we decided to go the next day on a trip to Rio Lagartos which as mentioned already is one of the spots in Mexico to see Flamingos and also offers a natural reserve. In addition, some kilometers east Las Coloradas is located. The huge salt factory is well known for the lakes attached which shine in a light pink color because of certain seaweed growing in the highly salted water. This spot brings itself onto many Instagram accounts with people posing in front of the colored waterhole while it is not allowed to swim in there. During the days we visited, people told us already that because of certain weather conditions the lake had at this time only a more grey color then any pink.
For the trip Joachim and Sanne, which just spent some days in Valladolid as well decided to join the plans I made. Jumping on the bus to Tizimín together we quickly found some other backpackers with similar plans. That made it possible to directly get a collectivo to Rio Lagartos and also fill two boats up there without having to wait.
The boat rides in Rio Lagartos include a ride along the mangroves, a stop at the flamingo spot, a bath in mud proclaimed as a natural spa, and a beach to clean up and chill if interested. Also, we were able to feed a huge crocodile and pelicans from the boat. Latter ones not only by throwing fish at them but also by holding fish and them grabbing it from your bare hands.
Another highlight and for me, a very special moment (because I might have played too much Pokémon in my childhood) was, when the guide just randomly stopped on the water, grabbed into it, and pulled out a horseshoe crab. This animal is up to 450 million years old and close related to land-living arachnoids and not to crabs. They are living fossils (term used by Charles Darwin) since they did not follow a strong evolutionary change or development, which mostly depends on the lack of natural enemies in their habitat.
The reason why I mentioned Pokémon is, that this animal is represented as Kabuto in the 1st generation (#229) - some might remember. I never would have expected to be able to hold such a special animal in my hands or have it sitting on my head.
After the trip and being exposed to all people around as the tourist who is just following weird advice, by covering themselves head to toe in mud and driving around the lagoon and in front of the town as a mummy, it was time to visit the latter one. Walking the couple streets the fisher town is offering, we asked locals for a good place for a beer and food. First showing us a touristy place at the harbor and us rejecting, they lead us to a grey building (7 copas - around C.9a or 11) which seemed to be very run-down and not any more inviting from the outside than a toilet on a highway bus stop somewhere in Central Mexico.
We entered through the hole in the wall mich would be able to hold a door, but it didn't. In the inside we found many (on average older) Mexicans sitting on plastic tables, lifely chattering with at least one bottle of beer in front of them - at 2 pm. Shortly noticing but more ignoring us we walked into the empty room with peeled-off walls, slowly spinning ceiling fans, and two huge oddly looking machines in one corner. To order a beer was the easiest you might ever expect because they neither had a choice of beer nor any other option, speaking of water or sodas. Even when described it sounds barely inviting, we felt cozy and were awaiting our beers which were to my happiness 'Dos Equis' - my favorite brand in Mexico. Also with the order of beers also came a plate with fish ceviche and crackers we enjoyed. At the same time, a small, younger but humpbacked man walked up to one of the machines turning out to be a Jukebox and started some songs. After they finished, Joachim and I walked up to them, through some coins in and started some European pop and also my dear friend confronted the not really amused crowed with full volume Rammstein's Sonne hoping to represent German music. After two beers we left the bar behind which might have been for the better.
Two corners further we asked some construction workers about a place to eat. Without saying much they turned around pointing at a tiny closed door some meters further in a building (C.10 or 12) with the same charm from the outside as the last one. When walking closer we recognized a small whiteboard with barely readable words on it. So we knocked and after some moments an older woman opened us with a smile and greeted us. She explained that she basically had only fish empanadas that day that might be finished quickly since we had to reach our collectivo 30min later. So we all agreed to try. Some minutes later we all had probably the best fish empanadas in our hands that we had in our travels. Even though being a bit nervous if this is good for our stomachs, we all enjoyed them a lot and since we got five pieces each, we shared and made many people in the larger group happy.
So both good examples to first talk a lot to locals and second of all be always open-minded during travels even though some situations might not fit in our Central European expectations how things should be or look like - just trust, might be your experience of a lifetime.
After this day trip, Samantha and I got a scooter the next day and headed out to see some cenotes. First thing in the morning we headed 40min to Cenote Palomitas which is in the same place as Cenote Agua Dulce. We only decided to visit the former one, because of separate entrance fees and because we knew we'll visit another one even though.
The Cenote is basically completely covered apart from a tiny hole. In the middle, one might find a rope to try to climb up. We were only with two other people there and enjoyed a swim for around 30 minutes. Even though the place was impressive with all the stalagmites, the dim light, and its calm water, it had more of the atmosphere of a graveyard than a place to stay for longer. In comparison, Cenote Secreto Maya which is some more minutes further away offers an amazing experience with a nice small park on top, a free shamanic ceremony (which did not help me, but more about it in a second), hammocks, and a pool for some additional pesos and a restaurant you might want to visit. Additionally, you have different decks to jump from. These are around 3 meters, probably 7 meters with or without a rope swing, and a spot at around 15 meters for which you need to sign an extra form, because of potential incidents and harm occurring when not jumping correctly.
Even though I did not try the highest jump, this wonderful cenote was unfortunately not my charm. After jumping a couple of times on the rope swing, one time while hanging on the roap, my hands slipped, apart from one finger which got stuck for a millisecond on one of the knods. After coming up out of the water again, I already felt serious pain - the result was (which was found some days later during the x-ray) a broken middle bone of my middle finger, plus most likely ripped ligaments. The finger was oddly shaped or better said the first two parts were twisted and it got completely blue. Nonetheless, the cenote is 100% worth a visit, less crowded, very affordable, and nice to swim or jump in, as long as you don't hurt yourself.
On our way back on the scooter, we stopped at the 'highway' at a small restaurant where an older man was BBQing outside on the street and which was quite crowded with locals at this time - La Palapa De Tikuch.
We got the typical specialty which was beef with different sides, fresh from the BBQ which tasted really nice. A younger guy sitting next to us started to talk to us, telling us, that he ended his workday around noon this Saturday because he is working as a miner and his 6 (!) workdays start all quite early which is why he has off Saturday from noon on. Since he enjoyed the talk and realized that we tried to order beers but the owner did not offer any, he went over to the next shop, got a six-pack, gave us two, and started emptying the other four - happy after work.
In the evening we went to an Italian restaurant (AHAL) where we met again, three days in a row, our personal musician called Miguel and had some amazing pasta. Afterwards, we headed to the Convent of Valladolid at which every night, yes every, a light show is presented on the walls of the fort showing the history of Valladolid. Everything is explained by audio. The first half an hour of the show is in Spanish and afterwards in English. I have never seen something like this in a city apart from Karlsruhe (which is only once a year but way bigger - strongly recommended). This is something Valladolid is unique for and which unfortunately not everyone knows about, but is without discussion a Must-Do.
In the morning I went to a local doctor for my finger who advised me to get an X-ray which was decided to happen two days later. Which is why we left for Holbox afterwards (see other article) and I came back two days later for it.
The day I came back, I realized, that lunch breaks in Mexico might be different than in Europe. When arriving at the X-ray place at 11 am I was told that they'll have a break now and reopen at 6 pm. So I left and had a stop because it was raining for the first time in more than 50 days at nearby Paxuko which is a fairly new cafe owned and run by a young couple who try to offer a place to chill and cowork. While having a Cafe and a carrot cake the owner explained to me a lot about Cumbia (typical Mexican but Ex-Colombian music), its origins, and how it developed in Mexico. Also, he shared his favorite playlist with me - feel free to give it a try.
Afterwards, I tried to go to the local market for souvenirs, which was at that time relocated and could be found at Market Mercado Municipal Temporal de Frutas y Verduras in Calle 30.
In the evening I did my X-ray but was asked to come back in the morning since no doctor was available in the evening to write a report.
Afterwards, I met Henry again in the hostel whom I knew from San Cristóbal and we went to Cocina Libre for dinner, which was also quite new opened and offered as well great pasta in a more family-style place. Later the day, we went to the Irish Pub in Valladolid, which is one of the least bars around.
The next morning I met Petra again from Sayulita and we went after checking her in into her Airbnb around the northern part of the city and passed after getting her first michelada, Las Chuches de Valladolid which is a unique place to try the different kinds of 'Special Micheladas' especially the ones with a lot of jelly bears. I got a Chamoyada pina which was very delicious and something I was waiting to try for a longer time. I think in this case pictures tell you more than a thousand words to explain this frozen drink. This 'bar' is definitely worth a visit if spending time in Valladolid, as well as the two pasta restaurants.
After having a quick lunch I left for the bus station to leave for Cancún from where my flight left to Costa Rica.
After being three times in Valladolid and meeting a couple of 'old friends' I felt already a bit at home. The city has its own calm but lovely charm. The small number of bars ensures that you meet the people you know and you'll always feel safe out on those streets.
Other Recommendations:
Mercado Comida: Food court with different options of quick food. Also, an Asian stand, if craving some rice and veggies
Ancestra: Small but unique and more exclusive bakery offering special delights - brownies strongly recommend
Mezcalería Don Trejo: Bar with rooftop, swings, and live music. Inan the garden they have a old VW bully with a table in there to sit in
La Joyita Cantina: Local pub which is usually quite crowded
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